Quantcast
Channel: Handmade by Carolyn
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 828

Navy stripes

$
0
0
It was Sam's birthday a few days back and I made a shirt for him. 
The fabric is from Spotlight, a medium-weight cotton twill in a heavy cream colour with navy blue stripes.  Ahem, stripes again, I know; but hey.  It's so hard to find different and nice mens' shirting fabric.  Seriously hard.  Fortunately, Sam loves stripes, so our quest to stockpile the world's largest, handmade, striped men's shirt collection is going great guns, thanks.
Buttons; a light bone colour, also from Spotlight.  Y'know, Spotlight gets a lot of flack for the hit and miss nature of their stuff.  And then every now and again, just when you're about to throw up your hands in despair, you find some gems.  So I'm eating my words right now.  These buttons, and this fabric?  Awesome-sauce!
So, do I have any new revelations about tailoring a man's shirt?  No.  Am I being mind-numbingly repetitive.  Um, probably!  I used the same ol' pattern too.  I reeeeeeally should get some new patterns, honestly.  And no; it wasn't really a huge birthday surprise, since for one, he did actually request it.  But I still wrapped it up so he could unwrap it on the day!
It's made to his fit preference; loose and boxy enough to wear open over Tshirts and hoodies, if he so desires, which he frequently does. 
Features...  Epaulettes.  
There are one or two bias details, for some visual interest.  Pocket on the bias, with a pen compartment.  Sleeve plackets cut on the bias, and I loooove how this looks!  Plus, it was heaps easier having no stripe matching to worry about here  ;)
Straight hem, with split side seams.
ETA: at right, showing the inside view where the flat-felled seam allowance meets the split side seam... (I will do a small tute on how I do my take on this, if anyone is interested?)

The collar is cut with much smaller, less pointy wings than the pattern piece.
I've been accustomed lately to flat-felling the armscye seam allowances, and French-seaming the sleeve and side seams.  Then I read an opinion somewhere that French seams were "feminine" and not suitable for a men's shirt at all... that flat-felled seaming throughout is the only acceptable finish to a man's shirt.  O rly??  Well, that burst my bubble.
So I felt sufficiently shamed into going with flat felled seams throughout.  Doing this up inside the sleeves of a shirt is not exactly easy.  I got a pretty nice finish, but it was fiddly business.
The yoke.  
Drastic fabric shortages  an inspired creative decision dictated that I cut it as two halves on the bias.  The yoke facing is a regular, on-grain, single piece of fabric for stability, cut from plain white cotton.

Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, navy and cream striped cotton twill.  My review of this pattern is here, and my previous Burda 7767 makes are here and here.


Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 828

Trending Articles