The clever AnaJan of Stepalica is designing patterns now! and I was honoured when she very kindly sent to me her debut design, the Nougat dress to try out. Thank you so much Ana!The Nougat is a classic, waisted, sleeveless A-line dress with a pretty swirly-skirted silhouette and closure by invisible zip in the left side seam. Where the pattern is extremely clever however, is that it includes three variations of various degrees of difficulty, meaning there is a something for all skill levels. If you want a challenge then version A with its multiple curved seams will give you a good one; if you want a pretty, A-line dress then version C delivers this too. I went for the trickiest version A for my first go, but the one pattern includes all pattern pieces and instructions for the two progressively more simplified versions B and C, and there are comprehensive instructions to walk you through constructing the more fiddly bits of the more advanced version A. I was a bit late for the Nougat sewalong, but I consulted Ana's posts when I did get around to making my own version, and I found all her sewalong instructions to be detailed, thorough and very helpful.
before...
The skirt is actually three separate identical chiffon skirts, layered. One is attached to the shell of the dress, the other two sandwich the lower edge of the lining. Each side seam is sewn in French seams, and I finished the lower edges of each skirt using the rolled hem stitch on my overlocker. I do really love the romantic ripply look of the layered skirts. The design is a very lovely shape. Very twirl-tastic, yes? I did a twirl photo, just because. Hehe, one of my pictures revealed that I am a fairly grim-faced twirler. I am so impressed by people that can twirl and have a happy, carefree facial expression at the same time. Me, I need to concentrate on not falling over!
Making my dress was not all plain sailing. There are boo-boos. I didn't notice at first that the two halves of the back bodice were different to each other and so mistakenly constructed it as a mirror image of one side; therefore three of my seam lines on the right side of the dress do not join up. One on the shoulder, one on the bodice and one on the skirt/bodice seam. Rats. But since I did use just one colour you can't really tell without super up-close inspection, hehe. My other seams all mostly join up ;)
Details:
Dress; the Nougat dress by Stepalica patterns, white organza and chiffon
Sandals; c/o Misano shoes
it's hard to know what to do with your arms when taking side view piccies...
Pattern Description:
The Nougat is a classic, waisted, sleeveless A-line dress with a pretty swirly-skirted silhouette and closure by invisible zip in the left side seam. The pattern includes three variations of various degrees of difficulty, the most advanced option has a complex swirled twisted diamond motif in the front bodice, with sunburst seamlines radiating out and then back in again to join together at the left hip.
Pattern Sizing:
European size 32-44. I cut a size 34 in the bodice, grading out from the waist to a size 38 at the hip level. Because of these personal sizing changes I also cut the skirt pieces to be a bit more flared going down to the hemline than the pattern to give a better look proportionally.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very clear and well written, and very helpful. I definitely needed them for that complex diamond motif! but I did use some of my own preferred sewing construction techniques for some of the basics.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The silhouette is not one I would normally go for, and I quite thrilled with how much I like it. I really love the line of the skirt.
I really enjoyed the challenge of sewing the diamond motif and in spite of a few boo-boos I am pleased with how it all came together.
Fabric Used:
Synthetic organza for the bodice and skirt yoke and chiffon for the skirt
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I stuck pretty closely with the original design, and just cut the skirt a bit more flared for my version. I sewed double rows of topstitching flanking each seamline on the bodice and skirt yokes, both to visually define them better and to anchor and stabilise the seam allowances and guard against fraying.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think I only need one of version A in my wardrobe since it is quite a distinctive design, but I would definitely sew either of versions B or C again. I recommend version A to the advanced seamster looking for a challenge.
Conclusion:
I am very pleased with it! I really wanted a white dress for summer which is why I went for a solid colour version of the pattern, and now it reminds me of an old-fashioned tennis dress. There is something quaint and ladylike and yet still sporty about the silhouette that I really like. The seaming is really interesting, and I am in love with the swishiness of the skirt.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think I only need one of version A in my wardrobe since it is quite a distinctive design, but I would definitely sew either of versions B or C again. I recommend version A to the advanced seamster looking for a challenge.
Conclusion:
I am very pleased with it! I really wanted a white dress for summer which is why I went for a solid colour version of the pattern, and now it reminds me of an old-fashioned tennis dress. There is something quaint and ladylike and yet still sporty about the silhouette that I really like. The seaming is really interesting, and I am in love with the swishiness of the skirt.
