I just could not resist buying Watson, the new lingerie pattern designed by Amy of Cloth Habit. Yes, I have a few lingerie patterns now, but a few points of difference with this one allowed me to talk myself into buying a new one. Quite easily, as a matter of fact! I've always admired Amy's beautiful creations and so adding her new pattern to my collection was always going to happen :)I used a sand-coloured cotton jersey, (the Morrison remnant sale), lining the bra cups and cradle with soft, sand-coloured rayon stretch (Fabulous Fabrics), pretty scalloped-edge lingerie elastic (Fabulous Fabrics) and plush elastic for the bra straps (Homecraft Textiles).
The pattern is for a simple, soft cup bra, in either longline or regular length, with no provision for underwires, and a bikini brief. Obviously I had to make both! and made my usual two pairs of matching knickers to go with my bra.
So, I have several thoughts about the Watson pattern...
Firstly and most importantly, I really love my new bra! I very much like the clean and modern line, the simplicity of the cut. It looks really cute on and for my size the fitting and drafting is spot on. I chose to make the longer line option, and am very pleased with it. Usually I go for a padded, underwire bra, but it's nice to have different options in the undies drawer.
I chose to line both my bra band and cups for two reasons; firstly because I prefer the cups to be a slightly thick and padded anyway; and secondly; because the way the bra is constructed inevitably means all the seam allowances on the inside are exposed. That's unavoidable in having a pieced cup in a single layer of fabric. However I usually like for my insides to be just as pretty as the outsides, and so I cut cup linings and worked out a way to construct it so that all the seam allowances are tucked neatly out of sight between the outer and lining layers.
2. Sew all pairs of outer and upper cup pieces together, also for cup linings. Baste the cups to their corresponding lining cups all around, wrong sides together.
3. Turn the cradle inside out, so you can sew the cups to the cradle, sandwiching the cups, right sides together, between the cradle and its lining piece. This means that all seam allowances will be inside the cradle.
4. Sew the lingerie elastic to the top and lower edges as normal.
5. hey presto! all the seam allowances are nicely tucked away!
A small complaint about the pattern: I had to do a bit of detective work to determine the lengths of elastic required because unfortunately they do not seem to be included in the pattern. I searched and searched and could find absolutely no clue in the instructions as to how long I was to cut my elastic pieces! Nor the straps! Strange. So I dug out my KwikSew 3300 bra pattern to measure the strap piece, and also checked out the tables in it for a guide as to how long I should cut the lingerie elastic for the Watson bra edges. Luckily, the KwikSew pattern has terrifically helpful tables outlining exactly how long you should cut your elastic, for each size. Thank goodness for that!
Same story for the undies; I had to get out my McCalls 2772 bikini pattern and measured the waist and leg elastic guide pieces and used these same lengths for these knickers too.
I've now jotted down on my Watson instructions all these elastic lengths I need so I don't have to go looking for them again. Because I'm sure there will be more Watsons in my life. :)
Ok I only have one more complaint, and that is that metric measurements are missing from the instructions. Yes, I can convert them myself, and I have, for future reference, and noted them down directly onto my copy. But it would have been helpful to have them included in the pattern. Along with those elastic lengths.
But now, I'm on it! Stay tuned for another exciting episode of Watson, coming soon to this station. Featuring some luvverly lace, mmmmm :)
