Oh hey. I made a dress. Wot a surprise! No seriously, how cute is this dress? Like, I think it’s rather cute, eh.
did I make my shoes too? why yes I did! thanks for noticing!
But of course what am I here for? but to provide the exact deets on how you can procure such hacked cuteness for yourself too. AND; be happy about how you not only made it yourself but that if you do so, you’re also raising funds towards an excellent good cause too… and did I mention there is a competition? with prizes?! No? well you could be in the running for a sewing machine, or an overlocker machine! Check out all the deets here!!
So, a few months ago I was contacted by Rachel of the Foldline re taking part in this thing, the third annual sewing blogger “hacker” tour with Simplicity/McCalls. Hacker? yes, I can tell you’re immediately interested, since all of us who sew also LOVE to hack; butcher; ham-fistedly riff upon add our own little “something” to a design, yeah? well, the tour is an initiative where proceeds raised from the sale of a small range of Eminently Hackable (TM) patterns nominated in the tour will go towards the Eve appeal charity… In all seriousness the Eve Appeal is a truly excellent resource to raise awareness of gynaecological cancers, and to provide a port of call for those wishing to seek information about the condition and the community. The site helps people with where to go and what to do, who to call for medical and non-medical cancer advice and support, should that situation arise in their lives. Like everyone else, I have very close friends and relatives who have gone through this dreadful experience, so I know sites like these can be a very soothing thing to turn to, when your closest loved ones just don’t know what it’s like or what to do…
I’m like, well GOOD ON Simplicity for being a part of this! here is the list of Simplicity sewing patterns that are part of the hackathon for the appeal…
S8378 XXS-XXL
S8658 XXS-XXL
S8700 XS-XL
S8701 H5 (6-14) U5(16-24)
S8888 XXSl-XXL
S8929 XXS-XXL
S8930 XXS-XXL
S8991 XXS-XXL
S8992 XXS-XXL
btw, the patterns I’ve listed above are all directly linked to the Simplicity website, but are NOT affiliate links, I would always disclose an affiliate link and in any case have so far had a super impressive, grand total of ONE affiliate link in all my decade of blogging – my goodness, how time flies! – but anyway, rest assured I am not making a single cent out of this! it’s all going to the Eve appeal!
Anyway, I chose Simplicity 8658… which is a pretty nice, loose, basic raglan sleeved tunic top, with some optional ruffle action going on… and I made a dress. Of course, one doesn’t have to “hack” the pattern, if you just want to make it up just as it, that’s fine! However, I couldn’t resist a few tweaks, here and there, just because not only do I love a good hack-attack but also I do love a cute little summer frock and could see how this pattern could so easily become the CUTEST summer frock imaginable! and I think it turned out ok too! … and I have thusly, and dutifully, documented any and all such tweaks in excruciating detail, right here because well, I am a blogger after all… Bloggers, must blog. It’s what we do (shrug)
I used this beautiful navy blue floral, cotton and linen single gauze from Minerva to make my dress. I’ve always waxed lyrical about how much I love navy blue and pink as a colour combo, so no need to bang on further, it’s just… CUTE, that’s all. Navy blue, and pink; am I right? And the texture of this stuff is just as lovely as it sounds; almost exactly like nani Iro double gauze, except it’s a single gauze, so not quite as “cosy” which is a very good thing in our very hot summers! and still with the same, super soft and exceptionally lovely light-as-a-feather touch to it. I love this fabric so much!
When I opened the pattern I was pleasantly surprised to find included a large sheet of grid paper, printed with 1″ x 1″ squares all over. Obviously to make your pattern-hacking plans just that much easier!
After some thought, I decided to make the following hacks:
- cut the back on the fold, as one piece
- cut the front as two separate pieces, with an overlapping V-neck opening. This would have little self-fabric loops and self-covered buttons to “close”. Inverted commas around that “close”, because actually the V-neckline is wide enough that I can just pop it on over my head, no need to undo any buttons at all #cleverNON?!
- use the lower ruffle but lengthen it considerably so it actually transformed the tunic into a full-blown dress #DOUBLEclever…NON?!!
- put in pockets. Because, obviously, pockets.
So above are my cut-out pieces. Additional pieces to the pattern are the two front facings, which have exactly the same profiles as the front opening edges, at 5.5cm wide not including seam allowances. I added a 1cm seam allowance to both the front opening edges, and the facing front opening edges too. I applied lightweight iron-on interfacing to the facing pieces. And, the pocket; which is basically self-drafted, though I can barely even write that with a straight face. I laid my hand down and drew around it for heaven’s sakes. It’s pretty big, because I have big ungainly hands. This is seriously my most used pattern piece, of all time. I use it in every single thing that I possibly can!
First step: stitch together the sleeve pieces, as directed. I opted to overlock all seam allowances to finish, using my overlocker and navy blue thread.
Stitch the back sleeve pieces to the back piece.
Belatedly stay-stitch the back neckline (woops!)
Interface the front facing pieces and finish the raw edge on the overlocker (or HongKong seam, or bind, or turn under and hem, whatever)
Make a skinny rouleau or “spaghetti strip” for the button loops; by cutting a 3cm (1 1/4″) wide strip on the bias, folding right sides together and stitching to give a 6mm (1/4″) tube, turn right sides out (a more detailed description on how to make rouleau strips here)
Cut into 5cm (2″) lengths for the button loops, and spacing them evenly; stitch them into place along the opening edge of the right front.
Lay facing pieces over the bodice front opening edges, and stitch.
Trim, and clip into the point. Press open, under stitch.
Cut a 2.5cm (1″) bias strip, and apply to the entire back neckline to finish, including both sleeves as well as the back piece (this technique described in more detail in this post here).
Pin the front bodice pieces to the front sleeve armscye, abutting the neckline edge of the sleeve hard up against the front/front facing seamline. Fold the front facing back over the front, right sides together, and enclosing the front sleeve between the two. Pin, and stitch. (apologies for the photobombing camera strap)
Trim corners, grade seam allowances, and turn out.
Attach buttons to the left front bodice piece, corresponding with the button loops. I used self-covering buttons, purchased at this etsy store here; and covered them with the same floral fabric as I used for the dress.
Measure where you prefer your pocket pieces to lie – this is a personal preference determined by your own arm length – and attach the pocket pieces to both ruffle/skirt pieces, front and back. Stitch side seams of ruffles, going around pockets (inseam pocket insertion described more fully in this post)
Apply gathering stitch to top edge of ruffle/skirt, draw it up to fit the measurement of the bodice. Stitch, over gathering stitches. Hem sleeves and ruffle, and yay! it’s finished!!
I’m so happy with this dress! and really enjoyed brainstorming how I could transform the basic pattern to get the look I wanted. Let’s be honest; hacking IS fun, and is always something to consider as part of the creative process for those of us who make our own clothes. I would absolutely love if my dress here inspired anyone reading this post to perhaps join in with the hack-along… it’s open to everyone throughout the world! and what’s more runs all the way through January so there’s still plenty of time to get involved. You can share your creation on social media and use the hashtags #hackalongday #hackalongparty #hackalongvintage in order to be in the running to win one of the pretty generous prize pool … see all the deets here.
Please let me know if you do join in!
Here’s some more inspiration from the other bloggers taking part, using other patterns from the list, please do visit and check out the very creative and interesting hacks from these very creative and interesting ladies!
1. Thursday 26th September
Juliet, from Sew So Natural
https://sewsonatural.com
2. Thursday 3rd October
Abi, from Crafty Pinup
https://www.whatabimakes.co.uk
3. Thursday 10th October
Rachel, from The Fold Line
https://thefoldline.com/blog/
4. Thursday 17th October
Susan, from Susan Young Sewing
https://susanyoungsewing.
5. Thursday 24th October
Brittany, from Brittany Jones
https://www.brittanyjjones.com
6. Thursday 31st October
Bianca, from Sleepless in Bavaria
https://sleeplessinbavaria.com
7. Thursday 7th November
Amy, from Almond Rock
http://almondrock.co.uk
8. Thursday 14th November
Victoria, from Victoria Lucille Anne
https://www.
9. Thursday 21st November
Sara, from The Sara Project
https://thesaraproject.com
10. Thursday 28th November
ooo, that would be ME! haha
11. Thursday 5th December
Rumana, from The Little Pomegranate
http://www.
12. Thursday 12th December
Emily, from Self Assembly Required
http://selfassemblyrequired.
13. Thursday 9th January
Marie, from A Stitching Odyssey
http://www.astitchingodyssey.
14. Thursday 16th January
Portia, from Makery
https://makery.co.uk
15. Thursday 23rd January
Barbara, Lisa and Louise, from The Pattern Pals
https://www.youtube.com/
16. Thursday 30th January
Jen, from The Gingerthread Girl
https://gingerthreadgirl.co.uk
Details:
Dress; Simplicity 8658 modified, single cotton/linen gauze
Shoes, my own design and made by me, details here
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