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Handwoven "rag-rug" placemats

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Another set of hand-woven and -stitched items from my teenage years...
and I cannot believe I have so far overlooked these very frequently used items in my documentation process!  :O
To the best of my memory, this is probably my very first handwoven project on the big floor loom...  I expect Mum suggested these as a good beginner's project before moving onto a more complex project; like the serviettes* I featured in the previous post, with an in-woven pattern.
A set of six placemats in the rag-rug style.  Each measures 40cm x 24cm. 
They are woven in a plain weave, with a blue cotton warp.  The weft was made of three different blue cotton fabrics; two plain cottons and one fine-wale corduroy.  These fabrics were cut into thin strips, the ends spliced and lightly hand-tacked together to make a continuous strip.
The tops and bottoms were finished off by hand-stitching a loop around each and every warp thread and into the weaving, the warp trimmed and then the ends folded under twice and stitched into hems.
These have been in solid rotation for twenty-five odd years although we haven't really used them as much in the past coupla years.  This is not because they are fragile, oh no! the rag-rug is a super long-lifed type of fabric; super tough and hard-wearing and able to withstand a pretty heavy-duty lifestyle!  More just our laziness, not going and getting them out of the linen cupboard as often as we used to, I guess :)

*btw, I decided to eliminate rants from my blog a while back, but just quickly: anyone who wishes to anonymously "correct" my Australian English and lecture me on the "proper" words to use when describing my handmade items, how about this:  instead of trolling, maybe you could appreciate that other countries and cultures might sometimes use different words from your own.  As well as broadening your mind, you might just learn something new every once in a while  :)
Phew! Rant is over and good nature has now been restored!

Of the palest blue

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I still have one or two really lovely pieces of fabric given to me for pressies last Christmas, as well as from my birthday last year (blush) Beautiful fabrics that I have been too chicken to take the scissors to.  I know, ridiculous, right?!
Including a length of luscious powder-blue silk from Fabulous Fabrics, given to me by Cassie. 
This is a pure silk, but an unusual silk like none I have ever come across before.  The texture is very slightly rough and "grab-y", almost suede-like; but somehow it still manages to be ripply and totally divinely soft against the skin.
No kidding, it's like wearing a pale blue whisper.  
I've given staaaacks of thought as to what to make with it... and eveeeeentually made a decision.  Hey, I'm a Libra yo.
I really love my billowy black shirt, made last year.  It is so easy to wear and I feel so so good in it.  I feel like it is really flattering.  I love the shawl collar, the elegantly draped and gathered sleeves.  It is close to being perfect, and I wanted to make another one sorta similar, with a few modifications.

When I laid my pieces out on the fabric and realised I was going to end up with an unacceptably large piece of leftover fabric... aaagh!  More scissor-phobia and had to immediately pack it all up for a bit more thought.  And finally came up with a plan; yes, I still wanted my shirt, but I thought I might be able to squeeze a little petticoat from the leftovers... and I did!  Just!!!  And I have absolutely NO leftovers! Whooeee!
I had to cut the two back bodice pieces of the petticoat on the cross, and piece together one of the shoulder straps, but whoa!  Self high-five!  The high that comes with achieving zero waste in a project is pretty darn extra euphoric, yes?  No??
Hmmm.   
Maybe I need to get out more  :D


The nitty-gritty:
For my shirt/tunic: I used the same basic shirt pattern as for my billow-y black shirt, with some minor fitting modifications too; the bodice is based on Burdastyle 10/2010, shirt 102 (my review of this pattern is here), the shawl collar is adapted from Burda 8218, and the sleeves were partially based on those of my black blouse for which I used Burdastyle 5/2010 dress 101.  But I have to confess I didn't use the pattern piece this time but drew a different one.  The sleeves have a shallower sleeve cap, are shorter, slightly more slim-line and not quite as bell-shaped; as the sleeves on my billow-y black shirt.
Another modification was to make it a tunic top rather than a shirt, with the front cut in one piece and with a half opening.
below; insides-ies...

The beautiful pearlescent marquise-diamond shaped buttons were a gift from the lovely ElleC, thank you ElleC!  Snipping these buttons off of their card was another little hurdle that made me hesitate for a day or two, gathering strength; but eventually I forced myself to acknowledge that my new silk tunic was deserving of the very best buttons too  :)  Initially I sewed them on vertically but they popped open like nobodies' business, so I re-sewed them on the horizontal which helps them stay buttoned up.

For my petticoat: I used Burda 8071, a terrific basic pattern I have used ten times before; for ten different dresses and petticoats.  This is the eleventh!  To see a gallery of my previous versions of this pattern, go here :)  The bodice is lined with ivory silk charmeuse, leftover fabric from this top.

All the seams in both garments are French seams and all other raw edges are finished with HongKong seaming, in a lightweight ice-blue cotton leftover from this shirt.  The one exception to this is the armscye seams in the tunic; I initially finished them with HongKong seaming but decided they were too bulky and made a bit of a hideously unacceptable lumpy-bump on my shoulder  :((  so I unpicked it all, trimmed the heck out of them and finished them on the overlocker instead.  
Sometimes, one's quest for perfect inner appearances must be ditched in favour of perfect outer appearances after all... hehe.

Details:
Tunic; my own design, adapted from several patterns, powder blue silk
Petticoat; Burda 8071, powder blue silk and lined with ivory silk charmeuse
Belt; of emu leather, from luxe boutique (sadly no longer open)
Sandals; Pedro Miralles, from Soletta shoes

Just some housekeeping: I have no idea why, but I have been unable to comment on Wordpress blogs lately.  I type in a comment but it totally disappears... what is with that? So, to my Wordpress blogging friends, sorry!  I am reading, and trying to comment  :(

Khaki military shirt; 6 different ways

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Oooh, it's been a while since I did one of these posts... which is silly since I do get a big kick out of these myself.  Playing in one's wardrobe, the bestest play a grown-up girl can have, no?
Sometimes I like to play with new garments, to see how they are going to work out with things I already have; sometimes with an old garment to revisit it, and see how it's holding up.  
This shirt falls into the latter category.  I made it using a men's shirt pattern Burda 7767, of deep olive linen and with carved brass buttons, and first posted it here.  I really loved the slouchy easy vibe of the military trend and added lots of little details like arrow-head tabs, flaps and pin-tucked pockets to make my shirt look as much like an army shirt as possible.  Is the military trend on the way out?  Oh well.  I still absolutely love my shirt.  It helps that casual and grunge-y is my all-time thang, and that khaki is one of my best colours  :))
This is such an easy garment to have and to wear.  It is linen, and I don't even iron it.  Ever.  Yes I'm serious!!  It's supposed to look crinkly!
I've worn it several times here on my blog already, and for today tried to mix it up in a few new ways....  and yes, the fact that I have worn it loads of different ways already and can easily come up with a whole host of completely new ensembles incorporating this shirt... oh, did somebody say "way too many clothes"...?    ;)
Ahem, without further ado.
Below left; the casualness of the design combined with the airiness of linen makes the shirt a perfect pairing for shorts on a hot summer's day.  At right; I really love the look of a slouchy man-style shirt blousing out over the top of a high-waisted pencil skirt.  I wore this  outfit last week sometime.  Hmmm, looking at this I've realised it is pretty rare for me to actually show any of my handbags in my photos, would you prefer to see the whole ensemble including the handbag in future daily outfit photos?  Please let me know....
Below at left: yes it does go nicely with my new capris as well...  this is another outfit I wore last week.  I adore this safari colour mix of khaki, beige and black too.  At right; worn as a "jacket" to grunge down a slightly dressy, more winter-y ensemble.  I wore this exact outfit once or twice over the winter just gone.
Below left; it looks a touch smarter when belted, over a little skirt and with my slouchy boots.  Seriously, the colour khaki goes with all the colours in my wardrobe... I had trouble picking out just one of my skirts for this look.  Middle; another winter-y but casual ensemble, with jeans and boots.  I really did enjoy wearing the shirt as a sorta jacket like this during the cooler months.  Truth be told; being linen it didn't add much warmth but I just liked the look of it!  At right; a sludgy and neutral foil to bright bright bright blue.  Incidentally, this last outfit is the one I am wearing today... 

I'm sure you can count, and have probably noticed that there are seven different ways here, not six.  Sorry, I just got carried away and then I couldn't narrow it down!!  So yah, seriously.  I sure hope the military trend sticks around for just a bit longer!

HongKong seams and the hemline

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Hong Kong seams are a tidy and very handsome way to finish raw edges... but what happens at the hemline?  The seam gets folded up on itself twice, and if you are working with a flimsy fabric and especially if you are planning a narrow hem you will end up with a hem that is thick and blobby with extra fabric; not very attractive.
The solution is to cease the HongKong seaming inside the hem, at a spot before the fabric is folded up into the hem.
With this dress, I had such minimal fabric I couldn't have a deep hem and needed to sew as narrow a hem as pssible.  The side seams are French seams which go fine into a narrow hem, but the centre back seam with the zip in it cannot be sewn with French seams obviously, so I opted to finish the raw edges with HongKong seaming...  and I took a few photos to show how I dealt with the HongKong seaming into the hem...
The bias strip for the HongKong seaming is sewn to the raw fabric edge, down to roughly 15cm from the lower edge.  Then fold the edge of the bias strip over the raw edge, press and stitch in the ditch from the right side to about 10cm short of the first stitching, allowing plenty of tail.  I've left the thread ends long and un-snipped to show where I've finished the stitching.
Now insert the zip.
Complete sewing the centre back seam down to the bottom edge.
At this stage, measure and pin the hem, and press it in place.  Unpin and unfold the lower hem at the seam.
Trim the bias strip to be just short of the hem fold.
Finish stitching the HongKong binding in place.
Fold up the hem, pin and finish stitching the hem in place.
Voila!  The raw edges are all neatly finished, and the hem looks nice and flat with no added bulk too!

Perchance to dream

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I have made some rather daggy baggy shorts, but don’t worry.  Style has not flown out the window.  After today, these are my new summer PJ bottoms!


I used a too-small-for-anything-else piece of polycotton, crazily colourful and wildly patterned; given to me by my friend C from her late mother’s stash.  It is very nice for summer PJ’s really; light and flowy yet closely woven and sturdy.  One just has to be careful about looking at that rather garish floral print.  Which I think I can manage, since I will be tucked up in bed with my eyes shut for most of the time I’ll be wearing it.
kidding! it's actually rather luscious, don't you think?

I made these using my usual pattern, adapted from off an old pair cut up yonks ago for this very purpose and from which I have made all my PJ bottoms for the past few years.

With added pockets naturally…. because; well, when it comes to the question of pockets in a garment, if one can then one does, amiright?
I gave them a decorative fly front, and found three purple buttons in my stash that are a pretty good match!
With regards to my white shirt here: no, that is notsleepwear; but more a lame attempt to disguise the fact that I am, tut tut, actually wearing my pyjama bottoms out in public; shock, horror.  Really for the top half of my PJ’s I’ll be downgrading one of these little tees.   I opted not to wear said little tee out today because together they really do unmistakably scream "PJ’s!!" It’s the elastic waistband I think  (shudder)  Even for Australia, even for the beach….. yeah, no.

Actually I had almost forgotten I even had this lovely white shirt… which is pretty dumb of me since it is kinda perfect for the delightful spring weather we are having.  It’s not too hot for it yet, and it gives really good coverage from the sun. I have rediscovered my love for this shirt since seeing Merche’s truly fabulous version of this pattern.  Isn’t it great that we can simultaneously wear our shirts on opposite sides of the world, despite having opposite seasons?

a moment of reflection...  

Details:

Shorts; self drafted with the help of an old pair of PJ’s, polycotton

Shirt; Burdastyle magazine 10/2010, shirt 102, lightweight ivory cotton, details and my review of this pattern here

Hat; pilfered from my husband


Sienna; is wearing her own PJ’s as well…

A petticoat and an ISTJ

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OK, so I have posted about this new... er, thingbefore; and in a comment janesewandtell expressed surprise that a petticoat should have a zip ... the answer of course is that even though I did describe it as a "petticoat" of course it really was only masquerading as a petticoat.  Actually it is a bonafide dress, and can very well be worn as one!
So I thought it really deserves its very own post to show what it looks like on!  Since it has a fitted bodice it does need a zip so that I can actually get it on and off.  I supposed I described it as a petticoat since it is made of a lusciously soft silk that is kinda flimsy.  Meaning it can be worn underneath a loose lightweight thing like my tunic top and function quite well as a slip.  But the fact is that as the weather warms up this is the kind of light and airy sundress I will love to pop on and wear on its own too!
So here 'tis!
And sorry to mess with your heads, but I've accordingly copied the petticoat/dress's info from the original post it shared with the tunic top to here  :)
I used Burda 8071, a terrific basic pattern I have used ten times before; for ten different dresses and petticoats.  This is the eleventh!  To see a gallery of my previous versions of this pattern, go here  :)  The bodice is lined with ivory silk charmeuse, leftover fabric from this top.
All the seams are French seams and all other raw edges are finished with HongKong seaming, in a lightweight ice-blue cotton leftover from this shirt.

Details:
Dress/petticoat; Burda 8071, powder blue silk
Sorry, you can't see them very well in the picture above but I am wearing these sandals; a gift from Misano. 

I loved reading about sewbusylizzy's Myers-Briggs personality! and no one is going to be surprised to find out that I am a ISTJ; the Examiner, or the Duty Fulfiller.  The type of person who sees out to the bitter end what she has started even if she is hating it. This explains why I am dutifully continuing with the year of self-auditing my sewing habit, which I am heartily wishing I had not started... is everyone bored stiff with my meticulously accurate but excruciatingly dull accounting??  That's OK.  I wouldn't blame you one little bit  :)

OK, the Organisational Odds n' sods for October...

Fabric; a re-fashioned ball gown

Patterns; Vogue 1170, used previously

Zip; recycled from the same dress
Hook & eye; from stash
Total cost: free

Fabric; leftovers

Pattern; used previously

Dye; (first time used, bought at a 30%off everything sale at Spotlight) $7.77
Bra cups; $12.95
Hook and eye closure; $2.49
Underwires; $2.49
Elastic; 2x $3.49= $6.98
Ribbon; $0.10
Total cost: $32.78

Fabric; $28.00

Pattern; McCalls 2772, used previously

Swimwear elastic; $4.99
Thread; had already
Total cost: $32.99

Fabric; gift from Craig

Pattern; Vogue 1309, $8.75 on special
Zip; $2.50

Thread; had already

Total cost: $11.25

Fabric, zip and thread; gift from Cassie

Patterns; all used previously

Buttons; gift from ElleC
Total cost: free

Fabric; from my friend C
Pattern; self drafted

Buttons and thread; had already
Total cost: free
Slender Man mask
Fabric; $13.19
Zip; $0.65
Total cost: $13.84
Miscellaneous

No miscellaneous purchases this month


Total costs for October, not including Tim's mask:  $77.02

Slender Man

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Have you ever played Slender?
Hands down.  Scariest.  Game.  Ever!
Our family has been playing this free-downloadable a bit...  and if you can first-time play this in a darkened room without emitting even one girly scream....? well actually I do not believe anyone can!
When I was a kiddie growing up Halloween was completely unknown in Australia.  When I had my own children we'd heard of it by then but it was not observed at all.  Nowadays it is creeping in! stalking up on us like Slender Man upon its prey....  ;)
And Tim wanted to be the Slender Man.
Of course one is interested in what one's children are interested in, right? and the funny thing is that my adult children and their friends have Halloween parties and love to dress up, any excuse for a party....!  So yeah.  
I even went out today and bought some mini Mars bars too, in case we got some trick-or-treaters.... hoo boy, I am mellowing out; hehe!
I made a Slender Man mask.  It is as close a copy as I could get to a morph mask.  I made it using a white poly/lycra from Fabulous Fabrics; very light and thin and stretchy stooff.  The front has a "chin" and I put in a short zip at the back to help put it on over his head.  The zip I had leftover from when I was making these little jeans purses.

The verdict: True story...
I looked up and he was suddenly there, in the room, and I admit to a small double take.  
I'm like, "ooh that's spooky, Tim."
Silence.
"Tim?"
More silence.  Brief moment of freaked out hesitation... 
"Tim!?"
Finally he says, "yeah, so whaddya think?"
I'm like, " Whoar, don't scare me like that!!"
Later edit: don't worry, Tim did not go door-knocking... this outfit was worn to a private party only  :)

Blood Orange

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Is it a given that all my Vogue 1247 tops will have citrus-y nomenclature enforced on them?  First clementine, and then blood orange....... aaaaand theeeeeeen?
We shall see, we shall see about that....   ;D
Anyhoo, it was always a given that there will be more of these tops in my life.  Now the weather is warming up beeeayoutifully I dug the pattern out again.... there really should be some sort of award for best pattern of the year or something.  Oh, that's right! there is and this pattern is!
Fancy that!
So, what you may not realise straight away, but which I shall hasten to enlighten you asap, is that this is not just the same pattern as my first clementine version, but actually the very same fabric too.  Yup, the very same!  Except that it has been dyed with iDye in Brown, … to imbue the original pinky-orange with the deep, rich, sophisticated mahogany that awaits one inside a blood orange.  The warp and the weft; originally a light pumpkin and a bright neon orange, picked up the brown dye to become nutmeg brown and burgundy respectively...

This same fabric also played a supporting role in this post too, providing an appropriately, complex-ly colourful backdrop to some also dyed underthingies.

Now it has shed its one dimensional role as just a prettily colourful piece of fabric folded in the stash, and join instead the brave new 3D world of Things One Actually Puts On.
So, fronties; backies.  Because of a lack of fabric I cut the back pieces on a centre fold.
The pointies meet up just exactly as they should…
all French seams-ies…

Lingerie strappy thingies…. These were a gift from the gorgeous Yoshimi.  Thank you Yoshimi!

I didn’t realise at first, until I was filling in the details bit I always put at the end of every post; that the skirt I am wearing it with here is in with the same pattern as the top, and is also dyed with iDye in Brown too.  Hmmm, predictable, repetitive, stuck in a rut; or what?
Maybe I need to get me some new patterns, or new dyes, or new ideas or something…

Kidding of course,  This pattern is da bomb!  This may not even be the last version to be seen here on the blog this year….  stay tuned!


Details:

Skirt; Vogue 1247, red cotton velveteen, ombre dyed with iDye in Brown, details here, and my review of this skirt pattern here

Shoes;  from Misano


Lemon macarons

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It was inevitable.... 

The lemon glut continues.  
Coupla lemon cakes a week.  Every chicken dish is lemon chicken.   Lemon juice squirted on the barbecued fish, whether the kids like it or not.  All who visit invariably comment on our lovely lemon tree, and are quickly put on the spot.
Me: "Would you like some lemons??"  (innocently, but with crazy grin) 
Hapless visitor: "Oh, er, yes ple...."
and I'm off, grabbing a bag, stuffing a dozen lemons in it.
"Here you go!" thrusting it into their only politely enthusiastic arms.  Visitor makes a mental note not to come around again until they've used up the lemons from the last time....
and now:

Lemon macarons with lemon curd filling

100g egg whites, allowed to sit covered at room temperature for 3 days
30g castor sugar
5g powdered egg white (if you can't get it, Pavlova Magic works)
125g almond meal
200g pure icing sugar
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tblsp 
finely grated lemon rind

Sift the icing sugar, baking powder and almond meal.  It takes a long time to sift the almond meal and you have to push it through with a spoon but it should mostly 
pass through the sieve eventually.  Discard the small quantity of lumpy bits that do not pass through the sieve.  Combine castor sugar and powdered egg white (or Pavlova Magic) in a separate little bowl.
Whisk the egg whites until firm and stiff enough to keep its shape when you turn the bowl upside down, I prefer to whisk by hand.  Gradually add the castor sugar/powdered egg white mix whisking continuously and vigorously after each addition.
Add the icing sugar/baking powder/almond meal mix in five batches, stirring until mixed each time.  Lastly, stir in the lemon rind.
Transfer mixture to a piping bag and pipe rounds onto a baking sheet or baking paper, leaving an inch between each round, and let them sit on the bench for one hour or until they have developed a "skin" and do not feel sticky to the touch.
Bake at 120C for 6 minutes, turn the tray around, bake for another 6 minutes then remove from the oven.  Slide the baking sheet off the tray and onto the bench; partly so you can cook the next batch, but also the cold bench stops the cooking process in its tracks.  When they are completely cold, peel them carefully off the paper.


for the filling: (this recipe has appeared here before)

rind and juice of 4 lemons
6 eggs
1 1/2 c sugar
125g butter

Lightly whisk the eggs and sugar together in a saucepan, then add the other ingredients.  Whisk continually over a medium heat until the mixture has thickened to a custard-like texture then allow to cool in the pan.  Decant into sterilised jars and refrigerate until set completely. 
Spread a little onto a macaron like spreading jam thickly on bread, then stick another macaron on top.


Thoughts: 
This time I weighed the egg whites... it's occurred to me that this minor detail might actually be integral to the success of the recipe!  I guess I lucked out in this respect before, since 3 egg whites of the type I usually buy turned out to be pretty close to 100g!
In all honesty I didn't enjoy these quite as much as my previous efforts; the vanilla, coconut and berry fruit flavours.  Maybe the natural sourness of citrus isn't the most crash-hot pairing with the delicate almond flavour of macarons.  Maybe we are just getting a bit lemon-ed out.
Maybe this is my swan-song in the macaron department.  Once I've sorta conquered something tricky in cooking I tend to lose interest.
Woa.  
Did I actually use the word "conquer" with regard to my cooking prowess?  HA!!  Oh I totally crack myself up sometimes.  Imagining generations of French pastry chefs spinning in their graves right now...  

Seafoam and sand set

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Remember my self-drafted bra?  Well this was bound to happen.  Once I had started producing some bras with nice, properly finished interiors; the days of that far-from-perfect bra were numbered.  When I learnt how things were supposed to be done, thanks to KwikSew 3300; those cobbled-together insides became painful to my eyes...
So, ta da!  I've made a new(ish) set.  
Y'know what?  I absolutely LOVE the fact that the two undies both match the bra, but are not identical to each other!  You can tell that they all go together, like one happy family; but each has its own personality.  Like; they are sisters, but not twins.
Will definitely do this again  :)
I took apart the old bra, and re-used as much of the lace as I could, as well as the half-sized padded bra cups and the hook and eye closure.  I bought new underwires since the previous ones were too short for this pattern.   
For the supplementary fabric I used some lovely soft sand-coloured bamboo jersey leftover from my scrumpled leggings, and had just enough to cut out another pair of undies, using McCalls 2772.  I added little scraps of the lace in at the sides of the new knickers before sewing on the elastic; to tie them in with the rest of the set.
Both the fabrics are originally from Fabulous Fabrics.
Y'all know how I like complete and matching sets in my lingerie drawer ....   hey, we all have our quirks right?  Mine is to have matching lingerie sets; and the two matching knickers per bra combo is pretty much mandatory to my continued sense of balance and order in the world.  I'm quite particular in that way :)
Now this set matches my criteria.  
And it is finished nicely.  
I am at peace.

the nitty gritty...
For the first time I made view A of KwikSew 3300 (my review of this pattern here), with the lace upper cup and a stretch knit lower cup, and once again altered the pattern slightly to allow me to sandwich the padded half-cups inside the lower cup pieces.  I used a bit of skinny ribbon for the stabiliser on the lace upper cup.  It has no give, and the piece doesn't fit the top of the bra exactly; so I found it necessary to first baste this, easing the lace to fit, then to stitch over my basting stitches.
The underwire casing was made from ice-blue shot cotton, leftover from this top.
The jersey lining of the lower cup "looks" funny; a bit bobbly and boinging out like a trampoline over the concave inside of the moulded cup, but obviously the soft stretch fabric moulds to your body when you are wearing it.  I can't think of any way to force it to follow the curve; short of gluing it or quilting it down to the cup.  And there's no way I'm going to go to those lengths when it actually fits and feels fine when it's on!

Now for the Tanga lace panties; although they look virtually identical to how they did previously...well, I hope they do!... these too have been taken apart and altered...
Why?
This is kinda hard for me, since I absolutely hate to bag a pattern, particularly an independent little pattern from someone kind enough to put a free downloadable pattern up on the internet, from the goodness of their heart, for everybody to enjoy.  Such a generous gesture does not deserve a bagging.  But the pattern, as it was, did not totally work for me.... why? because the crotch has a front-to-back central seam, combined with NO elasticated leghole edges to help keep the crotch edges... er, out, and apart from each other.  It doesn't take much imagination to extrapolate; and see that that makes for an enormously uncomfortable pair of knickers, that necessitates one having to snatch plenty of inconspicuous moments in one's day to hoink that wretched crotch seam out from where it has no business being.  The liner is one-piece, but is too flimsy to make a heck of a lot of difference, unfortunately.
Moral of the story; beware of knickers with a central crotch seam.
So I removed the old crotch and constructed a new one.  I used the one-piece liner pattern piece to cut a new knit liner, and also for a new, stretch elastic crotch.  I salvaged some more of the decorative stretch lace border from the old bra, cut two pieces to fit the length of the inside lace edge on the crotch which translates to about 1cm short of the outer edge measurement and sewed it along, stretching it along the outer edge to fit, gathering the side edges in a touch.
I didn't have enough of the original lace to cut a new crotch piece or I would have used it!  I had to improvise, using white stretch lace with a over-layer of pale blue poly chiffon; the latter cut a bit bigger all round and sewn on loosely to account for the fact that it does not have stretch in itself.  I think it blends in ok.  Would you even notice that the fabric was different without this close-up shot?
And y'know what?
Success!!
Using the liner piece to cut a one-piece crotch, and sewing border strips of stretch lace on at the sides to pull them in a bit.... it's a very tiny adjustment to the ultra-cute lace Tanga knicker pattern, but one that renders them a heck of a lot more comfortable imo.  In future versions I will definitely be doing this again!  :)

feeling blue

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I took this photo during our holiday on Rotto but never put it in with the other travel wardrobe photos... the blue skirt was appearing too often.  But I still think it's a nice photo so I decided to post it after all.

Details:
Raincoat: self-drafted, of non breathable nylon ripstop, details here
Top; top "a" from shape shape, formerly known as Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, of white cotton, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1170, blue corduroy, details heremy review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Thongs; Havaiana

I've been a bit sad and have lost some of the blogging joy over the past few days... thanks to a very sarcastic nasty comment on my blog I discovered recently.  A few might have seen a recent blog post I wrote about it ... but probably not many because I deleted it soon after publishing.  I also deleted the mean comment too eventually; Craig told me I should have left it to allow everyone to read it, but rude comments upset me.  I just don't want hurtful stuff on my blog.  I usually prefer to be all Positive Pollyanna.  
The commenter took exception to my review of Natsuno Hiraiwa's Pattern book Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, or shape shape, which she interpreted as a personal attack on her character.  Apparently she was an author of one of those scathing reviews on amazon about Natsuno Hiraiwa's book.  Of course it goes without saying that she had nothing nice to say about my own makes from the book!  She outlined her alleged long sewing history, I guess as a means of "proving" her superior level of sewing expertise, thus granting herself the authority to override my positive review of the book.  Despite admitting again she hadn't even used the book.  She classed me a "spoilt Anglo Saxon sewer" (and btw I have used Burda magazine patterns a lot too), and very sarcastically dissed the skirt I had made, skirt "d" pictured at the top of my review.
So.
I don't like to drone on about my own history since I prefer for my handiwork to speak for itself... plus one thing I've learnt from the internet is how lots of people can talk until the cows come home about how utterly expertly fabulous they are at something without ever offering any evidence to support their claims; so I will not.  I have posted about some of my really old stuff under the label ancient history.  
However, for the last three years I upped the ante to the max and took on sewing my entire wardrobe; and this has been documented pretty thoroughly here on my blog.  I have not bought any clothes in all that time.  In my real life, I am literally the only person I know who sews all my own clothes.  I really enjoy doing this; I love clothes and I love the challenge of creating them myself, and it gives me something to do in my spare time.  I'm a busy person, and don't like to be still, so sewing keeps me happily and productively occupied in the hours when I am not doing my official work in the office, cooking, housework, and on the weekends when my husband, who works very long hours, is on call or at work.
Blogging about it started out in a small documentative way; but has built up to become so much more to me, a community of wonderful like-minded people, with whom I share a common love.
Of course, I know I am very lucky and undoubtedly I am spoilt in many many aspects of my life BUT .... I've still put in many hours to get to the level of sewing expertise I am at, and I put in quite an effort to make things the best I possibly can.
I also put in quite an effort to present my creations in a fun, lighthearted and interesting way here, and to make my blog the best it can be.  I'm not the sort to make a half-hearted effort.  And I prefer positivity over negativity.
Anyway, I don't even know why I'm baring my soul defensively in this way... just feeling a bit down I s'pose.  I hope I am not over-sharing in an embarrassing way.  

(I wrote this a few days ago, and I'm feeling more cheerful now  :)

Thank you

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I just wanted to say a very big thank you for all those kind comments ... I read them all with so much pleasure and felt very much supported and loved by everyone.  You are all so lovely!
It is so very silly how the smallest drop of vitriol in amongst a whole crowd of sweet and kind comments can somehow be so disproportionately effective in bringing one's spirits crashing down, intellectually we know it should not be so but we humans are sensitive creatures and it is just so.  So silly!
So, I thank you all from the bottom of my heart and wish to send you all a big big beautiful bouquet of gorgeousness right back at you!

Kitchen witch

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Some kitchen couture!!
With all the gorgeous aprons popping up in the sewing blogging world at the mo' I thought I should show why I did not take part in the big sew-along this time... you see; I have a very nice little selection of perfectly lovely handmade goodnesses to choose from when it comes to cooking-related apparel; already!
All of which are of quite high sentimental value to me since they were hand-crafted by my two favourite ladies in my life; my Mum and my daughter Cassie.
I own two aprons and one pair of oven mitts.  Actually I have one other pair of oven mitts too, cruddy old ones which I actually use.  The ones Cassie made are too good to muck up  :)  But I do wear the aprons.
They are both quite simple in line and style BUT the divinity is in the details.
Firstly; the striped apron above was handwoven and made by my mother, and I have been using it all my adult married life.
It is all cotton; the fabric handwoven by Mum on a big floor loom in a plain weave; and has twill tape attached for the neck bizzo and the waist ties.
I just love the colours Mum chose  :)
Secondly; I have an apron and oven mitts set; made by Cassie when she was in year 11 for an Art assignment.  
This was term project, culminating in this apron and oven mitt set, a framed painting, and a whole portfolio of sketches.  The name of the project is Eve's Temptation... thus the sprinkling of cherries (innocence) and apples (temptation) over the textiles.  The fruit is all embroidered in three different reds, plus yellow and black, and is richly textured.
The embroidered bits were all created by Cassie devoting hours to madly feverish back-and-forth sewing on my daggy little sewing machine, that ahem, does not do embroidery.  It overheated and broke down during the saga, which was pretty devastating to both of us, for entirely different reasons!... but we won't dwell on that melancholy time; my machine was repaired, Cassie finished the project with a fresh perspective on respecting other people's property, and we remained friends ....  happily ever after etc etc!
The black designs are screen-printed and with some random areas of machine embroidery for a bit of added texture, and Eve's red lips are embroidered too.  Also all done on my very ordinary non-embroidery machine.
So you can see I'm pretty right in the apron department.  I am so lucky to have such clever creative women in my family!
(I am also wearing here my Bamboo shoot top from Pattern Magic; and my curtaining skirt from Vogue 1247)

You little ripper

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Recognise this thing?  :D
And something else looks familiar too... oh that's right, I have shown this dress here before already.  But there has been a small but significant alteration...  can you spot it?
No?
I wore this dress for the first time on the day I photographed it for my pattern review with a little camisole on underneath; and all was hunky dory.  Didn't notice anything amiss.  Then the weather warmed up more, and the second time I wore it out without any insulating, protective layer on underneath... and woooaaatch-y!  Those tough-guy industrial-strength brass zipper teeth might look super cool but they turn nasty when scratching up against soft and tender tummy skin!
Urgent action was required... fortunately I had a strip of leftover fabric.  
I've added a full-length zip placket.  Actually, I think it was pretty dumb of me not to think of this in the first place, hehe.  I concede that.  Doh.  Well, I've thought of it now.  Better late than never, no?
Much more comfy now!
I'm amending my review; and most importantly: must remember to tick that box "minor update only".  It's embarrassing when you forget to tick that, yes??  Your review shoots right up to the top of the heap, and it's like there is no.  Going.  Back.  
Woops.  Oh sorry about that, people; I'm not really trying to force the same review on y'all twice.  Really.  I'm not.  Hehe.  (cringe)

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 09/2008, dress 109, powder blue brocade with exposed brass zips, details and my review of this pattern here
Sandals; akiel, from an op shop

A pretty little thing

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Cassie made a top.
I know, yes; it really does say handmade by me at the top of this blog and I did not make this lovely, but wait; there is a logical explanation...
I am posting it here mostly to show the fabudabulous Merche, because a short while ago she very generously sent Patrones no. 7 magazine over to me; muchísimas gracias Merche!  And Cassie's top is the first cab off the rank...   The pattern is number 20, a little camisole blouse with a shirred back and a shoestring strap threaded through the top of the bodice to gather it up.  It closes with an invisible zip in the side seam.  Cassie elected to cross over the straps at the back, but otherwise the blouse is made up just to pattern.
She used a very lightweight cotton from Potters Textiles; thank you to Vanessa for alerting me to the Potters sale last year!  This is the first time a Potters Textile has appeared on my blog here.  Ack-choolly....  :) this is the very first Patrones magazine I've got my clutches on, and the very first make from it, using the first piece of fabric I bought from Potters Textiles and the first time a Potters fabric has appeared here on the blog...  
So this pretty little top represents a veritable avalanche of firsts... woot!

Cassie also made her own skirt, using Butterick 5488 and cotton denim from Fabulous Fabrics.
 below left: t' back view, and below right; her invisible zips are looking pretty fantastic imo...

A Public Service Announcement

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We interrupt our normal blogging schedule to bring you an important public service health announcement...
Please read carefully.  This information could save lives.
Recent clinical trials have shown that daily ingestion of one (1) lime macaron with lime curd filling is beneficial to health and quality of life; providing a plausible intervention in cases of starvation, sadness, scurvy and ... er, starvation.  
This is a clinically proven treatment, effective and simple to self-apply.  It is palatable to children and adults alike.

Please note; do not take more than the recommended dose as this product may be addictive.  Other possible side effects of overdosing on this product include weight gain and loss of appetite.


Lime macarons with lime curd filling

100g egg whites, allowed to sit covered at room temperature for 3 days
30g castor sugar
5g powdered egg white (if you can't get it, Pavlova Magic works)
125g almond meal
200g pure icing sugar
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tblsp 
finely grated lime rind

Sift the icing sugar, baking powder and almond meal.  It takes a long time to sift the almond meal and you have to push it through with a spoon but it should mostly 
pass through the sieve eventually.  Discard the small quantity of lumpy bits that do not pass through the sieve.  Combine castor sugar and powdered egg white (or Pavlova Magic) in a separate little bowl.
Whisk the egg whites until firm and stiff enough to keep its shape when you turn the bowl upside down, I prefer to whisk by hand.  Gradually add the castor sugar/powdered egg white mix whisking continuously and vigorously after each addition.
Add the icing sugar/baking powder/almond meal mix in five batches, stirring until mixed each time.  Lastly, stir in the lime rind.
Transfer mixture to a piping bag and pipe rounds onto a baking sheet or baking paper, leaving an inch between each round, and let them sit on the bench for one hour or until they have developed a "skin" and do not feel sticky to the touch.
Bake at 120C for 6 minutes, turn the tray around, bake for another 6 minutes then remove from the oven.  Slide the baking sheet off the tray and onto the bench; partly so you can cook the next batch, but also the cold bench stops the cooking process in its tracks.  When they are completely cold, peel them carefully off the paper.

for the filling: (this recipe has appeared here before)

rind and juice of 5 limes
6 eggs
1 1/2 c sugar
125g butter


Lightly whisk the eggs and sugar together in a saucepan, then add the other ingredients.  Whisk continually over a medium heat until the mixture has thickened to a custard-like texture then allow to cool in the pan.  Decant into sterilised jars and refrigerate until set completely. 
Spread a little onto a macaron like spreading jam thickly on bread, then stick another macaron on top.


Disclaimer...  I lied.  
This actually isn't a public health announcement at all.

All laced up with nowhere to go

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I'm joking... of course I've got lots of nice places to go  :)
I've made a lace skirt.
My very luvverly, very perceptive friends again gave me a Fabulous Fabrics voucher for my birthday.  Ohhh, they know me so well  :D
I try to do justice to their annual awesomeness by adding something appropriately beautiful and worthy to my wardrobe... last year's voucher became the red dress, my favourite cocktail number; and then the spiral leggings.  Ok, the leggings were not-so classic but nonetheless a very designer-y perennial and something I am still pretty pleased with.
Anyhoo, I'm returning to the classics with this year's birthday voucher ... ta da.
I used my voucher for this pale latte coloured, heavily configured lace and a length of caramel coloured silk charmeuse for the lining/underlining.  For the waistband I used a piece of grey/beige handkerchief linen leftover from a little something else I have made very recently; that has not appeared here on my blog yet ... it's kind of a secret for the moment.  To be appearing in due course  ;)
The shapes of the pieces in this skirt are kind of based on those of a beautiful Chanel skirt I checked out while we were in Milan.  I saw a skirt of heavily configured lace like mine, fitted but with no waist shaping darts, all the shaping in the side seams so as to minimally disturb the lace design, and a shaped, narrow yoke/waistband.  I saw and I liked.  I took note.
I used Vogue 1247... !  yah, you'd never have guessed, right?  :)  The pattern has been fairly drastically altered: with the pieces spliced together, minus the pockets and re-configured to eliminate the waist shaping darts.  The dart allowance has instead been removed from the side edges so as to not spoil the lace design; also the pattern normally features a high straight waistband, and I have lowered this a touch and shaped it into the waist also, so it is more like a narrow yoke than a waistband.  
This is a great solution to the dilemma of fitting a lace skirt with minimal marring of the lace design.
The top of the skirt sits lower, at my natural waist.  The centre back seam has the invisible zip closure, and is a straight seam with perfectly matched lace motifs.  I hand-basted the zip in place, and the seam before machine stitching, in order to match up the lace motifs as well as I could.

The silk charmeuse underlining/lining skirt has all French seams.  Instead of sewing the darts in place I folded the dart allowances into pleats which are just folded at the top and stitched in the seam allowance.  This is a better way of treating the darts in a skirt lining; less strain on the fabric.  This is another feature I've seen in high-end skirts.
I wore it for its maiden voyage here in a formal ensemble to go to a Christmas function; showing it off, tizzying it up y'know  ;)   but I will also treat this as an everyday little thing, grunge-ing it down with casual loose tops.  I'm picturing it with my khaki army shirt, or my billow-y white shirt.  I'm very partial to that high/low look y'know.  Very me.  :)
Toodles, friends!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 heavily modified, latte lace with caramel silk charmeuse lining and linen waistband, my review of this pattern here
Blouse; Vogue 1170, ivory silk charmeuse, details and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; Misano

Keeping the lace pure and undarted in a fitted skirt

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My lace design has regular repeating rows of curlicues, scrolls and flower motifs that I felt would have been spoiled by waist shaping darts; also the lace fabric is quite thick and darts would not have sat nice and flat on the inside.  Plus, they would have been visible through the wide holes in the lace.  
SO, I aimed to eliminate the darts from my skirt and maintain the integrity of the rows of repeating motifs in the design.

Thank you so much to Robyn and Sharon who asked  :)
And I should mention straight off that I learnt this process from using Tomoko Nakamichi's Pattern Magic books of course...the point of which is to learn how to manipulate a sloper and fabrics in order to achieve a desired effect.  I probably say that each and every time I mention the books, so please forgive me for repeating myself.  I guess I just love this sort of thing since I am a bonafide maths and fashion and sewing nerd; three, not-irreconcilable passions that are wrapped up together and catered to in one neat package.  Working through the exercises has taught me loads about pattern manipulation.
Anyhow, without further ado...


I chose the skirt pattern Vogue 1247 as a starting point because:
a.  I have used it a few times already and am happy with the fit.
b.  It has only one shaping dart on each side of the front and the back, and obviously one dart is way easier to eliminate than two.
c.  It has a high straight waistband that I could transform into a yoke fairly easily.  A waistband or yoke was an essential component to stabilise the lace at the top of the skirt.
d.  It is a reasonably straight little skirt, enabling me to easily match up the lace motifs down each side seam as well.

I am showing the process using the front pattern piece only... exactly the same process applies to the back piece.
I usually use old newspaper to make up my pattern modifications, but just in honour of taking photos today I have used some nice plain brown paper instead.  Yah I know, so classy  ;)
Draw the pattern piece with the dart marked.
Mark a horizontal line from the point of the dart extending out to the side edge.
Cut along the outside edge of the dart.
Cut along the horizontal line from the side edge to the point of the dart.
Rotate the top side edge into the centre to close the dart, and tape it closed.
Just to visually simplify the next step I've traced off a new paper piece from this new, dartless skirt front piece....
Now, my lace had straight, horizontal straight rows of motifs.. to indicate how this appears on my paper pattern piece I have marked some horizontal straight rows in red.... Now, see how the sides of the skirt curve up quite dramatically from the centre front?    The visual effect of the curving row of lace, even though it is apparent curving and not actual curving; is rather unflattering imo and would look messy and chaotic.  So, I wanted the top of the skirt to be cut in a straight horizontal line, to preserve the straight line of the lace design.
Cut off that top side curve.
The lower skirt piece remaining is your new skirt front piece.  The curved piece cut off the top is used to create the waistband/yoke section as below...
The waistband of Vogue 1247 is a straight waistband; trace a new waistband including seam allowances.  
Transfer the top side curve markings to it.. this will be the new curved side seam of the waistband/yoke.
Extend the curve up to the top of the desired yoke/waistband height; then freehand draw it a bit higher and then curve it down to join onto the waistband top, to square off that top corner.
This process results in a dartless skirt with a straight top edge that preserves the horizontal rows in the lace... and with a straight waistband shaped into the side edges.

Cement worker

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I made a shirt for Dad's birthday  :)

I used Burda 7767 custom-fit to his size that I fine-tuned with last year's shirt, and a fine-grade linen from Spotlight in a shade called "cement".  Very appropriate for a man like my Dad who is the handiest handyman you could ever hope to find!  Srsly.  He is.  Cementing would be an absolute doddle to Dad, I'm sure  :)
Last year's birthday shirt was a sort of "nice" short-sleeved shirt to wear out to smartish events, and this new one is more casual, more suitable to Dad's usual daytime activities; like working in the shed building stuff like The Chicken-Plucker (don't ask) and his own lathe, tinkering with the ute and trekking out through the bush to tend to his hives and chop wood.  And fire-fighting, although I kinda hope not!  
Being linen it will be a good cool shirt to wear all summer, and this one has long sleeves to protect Dad's arms from the sun.  He can roll them up if he desires without fear of embarrassment caused by tatty interior finishes: since the side and sleeve seams are French seams, and the armscye seams are flat felled seams.  I used my own tutorial for flat-felling a curved seam to achieve this neatly.
The pockets are bellowed and pointed at the nadir, and button closed with arrowhead flaps.  The buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.  The lower hemline is curved, and as always I sewed a spare button inside to the side seam.
After I had finished sewing it; it was all nicely pressed, with the creases ironed into non-existence and all perfectly smooth and neat, like a newly sewn garment always is.  I looked at it askance.  It looked so ... pristine.  A bit immaculate.  It didn't look like a "Dad" sort of a shirt at all.  My Dad is very much a low-maintenance sort of a man.  So I gave it a second wash, a good shake-out and hung it out on the line to dry in the sun.  It came up with a very satisfyingly lived-in look; comfy, rumpled and crumpled.  I did not allow the iron anywhere near it.  Now it looks very "Dad".

A little tip; when you trim off the seam allowances and points off of the interfaced pieces of collars and cuff and the like before turning out, it can be handy to keep the larger trimmings.  They can be cut down into small squares, which since they are already pre-interfaced are useful for stabilising buttons sewn in areas which have no facing, such as the cuff split button...
and yes, this was the secret thing I have made recently.... I used a small strip of the leftover linen for the waistband on my lace skirt.

Pomegranate

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Don't worry if you don't "get" the title of this post; that's an in-house joke...  ;)
I have made another birthday shirt, this one for Mum.
The pattern is Vogue 1247.  Yup.  This is the seventh butterfly to emerge from this particular pattern and wing gracefully away from my sewing machine.  Yowzer.  This could be a record, even for Miss Repetitive (ie. me)....
Man.  I need to traverse fresh paddocks.
But in the meantime, Mum had mentioned she really like this top, so ...  :)
Mum tried on the two versions of this top I had made for myself and decided she liked the fit so I just made the same size and lengthened it by about 2.5cm at her request.
The fabric is is Rowan's shot cotton in Granite, with a pink warp and a periwinkle blue weft.
All the seams are French seams, and I did the lower hem differently this time... the way it is explained in the pattern is just slightly on the unnecessarily-difficult side in my opinion, when it needn't be.  Instead of the stay-stiching and the trimming, I just folded a narrow hem under twice, pressed, pinned and stitched.  So much more simple, and yes, it was a heck of a lot easier to turn under too!
Mum made her own white trousers, and her scarf is Metalicus.
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